The Best LiPo Battery for RC Planes

The three numbers that matter

• S — cell count (voltage). Each LiPo cell is 3.7V nominal; "S" is how many are in series. 3S ≈ 11.1V, 4S ≈ 14.8V, 6S ≈ 22.2V. This must match what your motor and ESC are rated for — too many cells (too much voltage) cooks them. The plane's power system decides the cell count, not the other way around.
• mAh — capacity (flight time). More milliamp-hours = longer flights, but more weight. Bigger isn't automatically better; the pack has to fit and keep the plane in balance.
• C — discharge rating (punch). Max safe current ≈ C × capacity(Ah). A 1300mAh 75C pack can deliver ~97A — plenty for a trainer. Too low a C-rating and the pack sags, puffs, and dies early.

Match the cell count to your ESC/motor first, then pick capacity for flight time. Not sure what your setup pulls? The RC calculators do the C-rating and flight-time math, and the Checklist Builder sizes the whole power system for your wingspan.

Match the pack to your plane

The packs I fly

You also need a charger

A LiPo is only as safe as how you charge it. A proper balance charger is not optional — never use a generic wall charger. Grab one with the pack:

The verdict

Buy the cell count your motor/ESC calls for, then the capacity that fits your plane. For the 30–48-inch foam trainer most beginners build, that's a 3S 1300–1500mAh pack — the workhorse size. Smaller park flyers take a 3S 850mAh; bigger sport planes step up to 4S, and giant/cargo builds to 6S. Whatever you fly, own two or three packs so a flying session isn't over after one flight, and buy the charger at the same time.