Eric Robb RC Eric Robb RC RC Builds · Custom Parts · Backyard Engineering
Buyer's Guide

The Best 3D Printer for RC Airplanes

You don't need a printer to build foam planes — but once you have one, you'll print landing gear, motor mounts, control horns, cowls, wheels, and even whole wings. Here's what actually matters for RC, the two printers I'd buy, and the one filament detail that decides whether a printed part flies or just weighs your plane down.

Last reviewed: July 2026

Do you even need one?

Honest answer first: for your first planes, no. A $5 sheet of foam board and a hot glue gun will teach you to fly far faster than a printer will. But a printer earns its place the moment you want parts foam can't make — a real cowl, a scale fuselage, precise control horns, tough landing gear, wheels — or you want to iterate a design overnight. On the channel it printed the landing gear for the 1-day bush plane, and it's the difference between a foamie and a proper scale build.

What actually matters for RC

  • Build volume — small parts fit anything, but wing sections, cowls, and fuselage segments want a 256 mm-class bed or bigger. Bigger bed = fewer glued seams.
  • Reliability + enclosure — you'll run long, unattended prints. An enclosed CoreXY machine that "just works" beats a cheap open printer you have to babysit, and the enclosure keeps engineering filaments consistent.
  • The right filament (this is the big one) — a printed wing in standard PLA is a brick. Foaming "LW-PLA" / PLA Aero prints dramatically lighter and is what makes printed flying surfaces actually work. Match the filament to the part: light PLA for flying structure, tough PETG for mounts and gear near heat.
  • Speed — nice to have, but reliability and the right filament matter more for airplane parts than raw speed.

Printed planes aren't free strength — they need a carbon spar and they fly heavier than foam. See the honest version in I Almost Gave Up on My 3D-Printed Plane.

The two printers I'd buy

Filament — the RC-specific part

The printer matters less than what you feed it. This is the lineup for airplane parts:

The verdict

Most RC builders: the P2S. It's fast, enclosed, reliable, and its build volume covers the vast majority of RC parts and modest wing sections. Pair it with PLA Aero for flying parts and PETG for mounts and you're set. Step up to the H2D only if you're printing full airframes, want a bigger bed and dual-material/dual-color, or you're producing parts in volume. Start with the P2S; you won't outgrow it for a long time.

See a printed plane fly → All printing gear → Prefer a laser cutter? →